Mountaineer Jim Whittaker Dead at 97

The Mountaineers shares the news:

We are deeply saddened to share the passing of legendary mountaineer, author, and lifelong Mountaineers member Jim Whittaker. Jim passed away peacefully at his home in Port Townsend on April 7, 2026, with his wife Dianne and other family members at his side. ‘Big Jim’ was 97. 

Jim was a beloved legend among mountaineers worldwide and one of the most influential climbers in American history.
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 In 1963, Jim became the first American to summit Mount Everest, reaching the top alongside his Sherpa partner, Nawang Gombu. A parade was thrown in his honor in Seattle, and Jim was awarded the Hubbard Medal by President John Kennedy. 

REI press release:

For REI, Jim’s legacy is at our very core. Hired in 1955 by REI Co-op co-founder Lloyd Anderson as our first full-time paid employee, Jim was an early leader and went on to serve as the second CEO from 1971 to 1979.

I met Jim many years ago in Seattle at an event with fellow mountaineer Reinhold Messner. Back then I had no idea how truly influential he was for the Washington outdoor industry and way beyond that. Truly a remarkable person. What an inspirational life he lived.